Thousands of years ago, in what is now the Quintana Roo region of Mexico, there was a city called Coba. The Maya called it ‘waters stirred by the wind’, but today we know it by its Spanish name. Experts think Coba was one of the most important Maya cities.
Did you know there are over 4,400 Mayan sites in Central America? Many of them are in Mexico. The Coba ruins, hidden deep in the Yucatan jungle, are one of these cities. Due to its remote location, this site is quieter and less crowded than other famous sites. Unlike Chichen Itza or Tulum, Coba remains less excavated and less reconstructed.
Here’s something amazing: only a tiny part of this site has been uncovered. Many structures remain hidden in the jungle, covered by thick vegetation. What you see in Coba is less than 5% of what the city once was.
It’s hard to imagine today, but Coba once boasted one of the largest populations among ancient Mayan cities, comparable to Chichen Itza at its peak.
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Why did Coba become one of the most important Maya cities?
Coba’s importance stemmed from its strategic lakeside location and rich natural resources. The city was surrounded by five natural lagoons and cenotes, providing crucial water sources and fertile land. These features, along with the diverse plant and animal life in the surrounding jungle, made this city a rare and valuable find in the Yucatan.
Historical significance and impressive architecture make these ruins a fascinating destination for everyone interested in the Maya civilization.
Surprising facts about the Coba ruins
- It’s one of the largest and most important Mayan archaeological sites in Mexico. The area covers approximately 70 square km.
- The Coba ruins are unique because they are not a single site (like Chichen Itza or Tulum). It is a large group of sites connected by white roads (sacbe).
- It’s home to the tallest ancient Maya structure on the Yucatan peninsula.
- Only a few of its estimated 6,500 structures have been uncovered (only 5 % ). The hills you see are, in fact, unexcavated buildings.
- Archaeologists have found a Maya tablet mentioning the world ending in 2012 (an incorrect interpretation).
- It gets fewer visitors than either Chichen Itza or Tulum, giving you more tranquillity that the other sites do not have.
Quick history
It’s hard to believe, but Coba’s history goes back over a thousand years.
- Archaeological evidence indicates that the Maya population first settled here between 50 BC and 100 AD. Pottery fragments are the only source of evidence from that time, confirming that people lived here so early. All the buildings had flat platforms and were from wood and palm leaves.
- According to experts, the city’s peak came between 201 and 601 AD when Coba dominated the north of the state of Quintana Roo and areas in the east of the state of Yucatan.
- At the height of its power, it was one of the largest Maya cities of the Classic period. The city maintained close contact with large cities in today’s state of Guatemala and sites like Campeche and Calakmul in Mexico. To maintain its influence, they established military alliances and arranged marriages among their elites.
- According to the Mayan ruins website, at its peak, Coba was home to 50,000 people. Some scholars even claim that up to 100,000 people lived here at some point.
- After 1000 AD, it lost much of its political weight among cities, and other cities began to flourish.
- The Maya abandoned it at the time the Spanish conquered the peninsula in the 16th century.
The jungle swallowed the ruins, and they remained hidden for hundreds of years until their recent rediscovery.
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Suggested Itinerary for the Coba Ruins: Top Things to Do and See
TIP:
Begin your adventure by exploring the “Coba group” attractions, located near the main entrance. It’s the oldest group at the site. This complex includes several fascinating structures, such as La Iglesia (the church) and a well-preserved ancient ball court. The Coba Group is an excellent starting point with clear paths and informative signage, offering a glimpse into the grandeur of Coba’s historical city layout. With numerous trails extending from this area, you can continue your exploration, deeper into the site.
1. La Iglesia
As you begin your exploration, make sure to visit La Iglesia, or Structure B-1, as the experts call it. This pyramid is the second-tallest at the site and stands as an impressive example of Mayan architecture. Reaching over 24 m (78 feet) in height, La Iglesia overlooks the plaza towards Lake Coba.
Unfortunately, La Iglesia is no longer accessible for climbing due to its fragile condition.
Purpose and Function
La Iglesia has nine tiers topped with a small temple. The Maya used this pyramid-shaped temple for significant religious ceremonies and rituals. Scholars believe it dates back to between 600 and 900 AD, with the Maya adding to it over hundreds of years.
Stela 11
In front of La Iglesia, you’ll find the upper part of Stela 11, protected under a thatched roof. A recent discovery has unveiled the lower part of this stone monument, revealing new insights into its history. Archaeologists have identified the previously unknown ruler Xaman K’awiil, who ascended as king on March 14, 632 AD. They also discovered a rich offering cache beneath the lower half of the stela.
2. Acropolis
To the east side of the plaza, next to La Iglesia, lies the Acropolis. This extensive complex includes over 40 structures, featuring courtyards, vaulted rooms, and stelae. The Acropolis showcases multiple construction phases, typical of Maya architectural practices. While La Iglesia is the most notable structure here, the Acropolis also contains other ruins open to the public.
A wide staircase extends along the plaza side, measuring approximately 100 m (328 ft).
Structure B-4 is part of the Acropolis complex, connected to the south of the courtyard. This palace structure includes a staircase leading to a palapa-covered area. Be sure to walk through the passageway beneath the stairs and imagine how the Maya used this space in their daily life.
3. Stelae at Coba
Stelae – a crucial source for archaeological insights.
Coba’s stelae, tall and intricately carved stone monuments standing usually 2 to 3 m (6.5 to 9.8 ft), are vital for understanding Maya history and culture. These flat stones, often positioned near temples or key structures, feature detailed drawings and Classic Maya writing.
Historical Significance
These stelae commemorate significant events and notable figures from the Maya civilization. Archaeologists have discovered over twenty stelae at Coba, offering insights into Maya life. For example, some stelae depict ritual practices, and capture historical moments, social roles and illustrate aspects of dress. Though some inscriptions are weathered and unreadable, many still reveal fascinating details.
FUN FACT:
The inscriptions revealed that Coba had several female rulers, including Ix K’awill Ek’, who ruled in the 7th century, during the city’s golden age. Experts believe she was the third queen to rule over this city, a notable rarity in Maya dynasties.
4. Ball Game Courts in Coba
Ball Court 1
Temples were not the only structures in honoured spots in the ancient Maya cities. Almost every Maya city had a ball game court, where they used to host ancient ritual ball games and display wrestling matches. Until today, two ball courts have been discovered in Coba. The one near the site entrance is bigger and more impressive. However, in terms of size, they are tiny compared to the court at Chichen Itza.
A Ball court, Ek Balam: The form of the courts changed very little over thousands of years. While the size of ball courts varied significantly, their shape remained largely unchanged. Also, the game rules slightly varied depending on the region and period.
Pelota Game
These great structures in an ‘I’ shape with a long narrow alley and sloping walls were once a battleground. Two opposing teams would face each other in the deadly Maya ball game of Pok-Ta-Pok, known in Spanish as Juego de Pelota. Players couldn’t use their feet or hands – only their hips, knees, shoulders, and elbows. They had to keep a heavy rubber ball in the air, passing to teammates, similar to football. However, to score, they had to throw a heavy ball through a hoop attached to a side wall, like a basketball. Often this ball game would extend to hours, sometimes days.
Pay attention to small circular-shaped rings at the top of the ball court. The larger Ball Court 1 contains two original rings, which are over a thousand years old.
DID YOU KNOW?
This game was a religious display for the gods and sacrifice was an important aspect of it, as depicted on the glyph of many ball courts. According to Maya’s belief, their Gods enjoyed watching the game and admired the winners. Thus, the Maya ritually sacrificed the captain of the winning team at the end of the game, as sacrificing the losers would be considered an insult to the gods.
Ball Court 2
On one side of Ball Court 2, there’s an incredible panel covered in Maya hieroglyphics. According to the Mayan ruins website, this ancient text repeatedly mentions the name “Ko’ba’a,” revealing key moments in the city’s past. The panel highlights the important events of Juunpiktook’s rise to power in 494 CE, marking the start of the city’s dynastic rule, and the later accession of Kak’ Ti’ Balam in 574 CE. This inscription not only celebrates these rulers but also offers valuable insights into the history and governance of the Maya civilization.
ball court 2 panel
5. Maya Calendar Stone
The Maya civilization had exceptional skills in astronomy and they developed calendars that were astonishingly accurate. Their calendars surpassed even the precision of the modern Gregorian calendar. Remarkably, the Maya could predict the positions of celestial objects with high precision, all without the use of specialized equipment.
Astronomy
Did you know that the Maya civilization used multiple calendars to track time? They marked significant events and tracked cycles spanning over 5,000 years. The Maya even used the solar calendar, based on the sun’s movement. They kept track of the passing days, months and millennia. Many associate their fascinating calendar system with prophecies.
21 December 2012
the famous Maya calendar stone
Do you remember the global speculation about the end of the world in 2012? They originated from interpretations of the Maya calendar stone found in Coba. However, ancient Maya did not predict an apocalypse. Instead, 2012 marked the end of a significant calendar cycle and the beginning of a new one. This date marks the end of the Long Count cycle, indicating the world’s transition into a new era.
6. Ancient Roads
This unique network of white roads connects various areas where you can find the ruins.
Did you know Coba is home to one of the most extensive sacbe networks in the Mayan world? The former inhabitants built a unique network of white roads hundreds of years ago. This network of raised roads links the city with other important settlements, including Tulum. That’s why experts refer to this ancient Mayan city as the City of White Roads.
Until now, the locals have discovered over 50 white roads (16 are open to the public) in this Maya city. The main sacbe goes almost 100 km west to the site called Yaxuná (27 km from Chichen Itza). The Maya built the longest Maya road before Chichen Itza existed.
What did the Mayans use to build roads?
The Maya levelled the terrain and built these roads with limestone blocks. After that, they plastered limestone with a layer of white stucco. This gave them a smooth layer and a distinctive appearance, reflecting moonlight to aid visibility at night.
Why did they build them?
The sacbe network is an engineering marvel of the Maya civilization, though its full purpose remains somewhat mysterious. What we know is that the sacbe network played an important role in the Maya economy.
These iconic paths, ranging in width from 2 m (6.5 ft) to 10 m (33 ft), connected temples and plazas within the cities. They also linked other cities and helped the locals with the movement of goods and establishing merchant routes. Although this civilization had no wheeled transport, experts believe the Maya knew about the wheel’s existence. However, there is no concrete evidence of its use.
7. the ruins of the Maya palace
8. Xaibe
Structure D-6
Xaibe is one of the most remarkable structures in Coba. This striking semicircular lookout point features five well-preserved levels and a large central staircase, offering a commanding view of the ancient city. In front of Xaibe, a covered stone monument stands, adding to the structure’s historical appeal.
Experts believe that this large pyramid-shaped building, part of the D Group, originally functioned as a watchtower. Its name, Xai’be, which translates to “crossroads” in Yucatec Maya, reflects its position at the intersection of four major streets. This strategic location highlights its role in overseeing and managing the city’s bustling activity, making it a key element in Coba’s urban planning and defence system.
9. Nohoch Mul Pyramid
The Nohoch Mul Pyramid is a part of the most distant group from the entrance. It houses Coba’s tallest and the most famous structure. Rising to approximately 42 m (138 ft), it’s the highest pyramid in the northern Yucatan, offering breathtaking views of the lush jungle.
NAME:
While commonly called the Nohoch Mul Pyramid, its official name is the Ixmoja Pyramid. ‘’Nohoch Mul’’ derives from the Maya words for ‘’big’’ (nohoch) and ‘’mound’’ (mul).
FUNCTION AND DESIGN:
This Late Classic pyramid has seven levels and a small temple at the top, which contains images of the Maya Diving God. The Maya used it for major religious ceremonies, including offerings and sacrifices to the Maya deities. Experts believe the Maya dedicated it to the god Venus.
Ixmoja pyramid diving god image
At first glance, this unexcavated structure is practically invisible until you are right in front of it. The archaeologist restored it only on one side. The pyramid, which faces onto a large plaza, is a constant reminder that the jungle vegetation once swallowed the whole city.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Nohoch Mul Pyramid is taller than the pyramid at Chichen Itza, which stands at 24 m (79 ft). Of the ancient Maya pyramids, only the pyramids at Tikal in Guatemala and Calakmul in Mexico are taller than this temple.
The pyramid has rounded corners and a wide stairway with 120 steep steps. Due to the roughness of the stones, a thick rope used to run from the ground level to the top of the temple pyramid.
Can you still climb the Coba Pyramid in 2024?
As of 2024, climbing the Nohoch Mul pyramid in Coba is no longer possible. This restriction, implemented after the COVID-19 pandemic, aims to protect the pyramid’s delicate condition and ensure preservation for future generations.
10. Swimming in Cenotes Nearby
After exploring the ruins, cool off at one of the nearby cenotes. These natural sinkholes offer refreshing swims and are a perfect way to unwind after your visit. Cenotes are fresh water-filled sinkholes unique to the Yucatan Peninsula.
These three cenotes are just a 10-minute drive from the Coba ruins:
This shallow cenote is popular for its clear, turquoise water and impressive stalactites and stalagmites. The entrance fee is 100 MXN (USD 5) per adult.
Famous for its deep water and stunning rock formations, Cenote Tankach Ha features two jumping platforms (5 and 10 m). The entrance fee is also 100 MXN (USD 5) per adult. It’s open from 9 am to 8 pm.
With a large wooden deck and a big jumping platform, this cenote is perfect for a fun dive. The entrance fee is 100 MXN (USD 5) per person.
GOOD TO KNOW:
Most cenotes nearby are on private land, so you’ll need to pay an entrance fee for each. Be prepared to bring cash, as credit cards are not accepted.
Now you know what to do in Coba in Mexico!
Useful Information About The Coba Ruins
The Coba Ruins Opening Times
The Coba ruins are open daily from 8 am to 5 pm, 365 days a year. The last entry to the site is at 4 pm sharp, as of August 2024. For a tranquil experience, visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon before groups from Playa del Carmen, Tulum, and Cancun arrive. During our visit in July 2024, we arrived before 9 am and saw only three other families exploring the site.
GOOD TO KNOW:
December until April is an ideal time to visit, avoiding soaring temperatures and the rainy season. Between June and October, temperatures reach over 30°C (86°F), with higher humidity and more rainy days. Keep this in mind if you struggle with heat and want to avoid rain.
Visiting Time Required: 2, 5 hours up to half a day.
Coba Entrance Fee in 2024
Entry tickets for adult visitors to Coba costs 195 MXN (USD 10), as of August 2024. The entrance fee consists of two parts: 100 MXN for the Ejido fee and 95 MXN for the INAH fee. Bicycle rentals are 65 MXN, and tricycle taxis range from 150 MXN to 250 MXN, as of August 2024.
TIP:
Remember to bring cash in pesos as they don’t accept debit/credit cards at the entrance. However, for tricycle taxis, you can also pay in American and Canadian dollars and euros, as of August 2024.
PARKING:
If arriving by car, expect to pay 100 MXN (USD 5.20) for parking, as of August 2024. Again, you must pay in cash (Mexican pesos only).
GUIDED TOURS:
Prices for guided tours are not set, but expect to pay around 1,000 MXN (USD 52), as of August 2024. Prices depend on group size, language, negotiation ability, and how busy the ruins are that day. Many official tour guides speak several languages, including the Maya language.
Getting around the ruins
Cycling is a budget-friendly way to get around the ruins.
The Coba ruins cover a large area. The main pyramid temple is about 2 km (1.2 m) from the entrance, and other sights are even further. Here are some ways to get around:
- Walking: Walking around the ruins is the cheapest option. However, the heat can make it exhausting and it takes a lot of time. If you arrive on a bus tour, walking might not allow you to see much.
- Cycling: Renting a bike is a popular way to get around. Cycling allows you to avoid the tour bus crowds. You can rent a bike after exploring La Iglesia, Acropolis, and the ball game court.
- Tricycles: The bici-taxi is a perfect option for families with small children or older people. A local will pedal you on a tricycle, taking you to various ruins and temples. This way, you can enjoy the peaceful jungle surroundings without the effort of biking.
the bici-taxi
How to get there
1. Rent a car
If you enjoy flexibility and want to avoid bus schedules, renting a car is a great option. Coba is easily accessible from Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum. Here are the approximate distances and travel times:
- Cancun: 134 km (83 miles ), about a 2-hour drive.
- Playa del Carmen: 109 km (68 miles), around 1 hour and 30 minute drive.
- Tulum: 47 km (29 miles), approximately 45 minutes.
GOOD TO KNOW:
The roads from these locations are safe and well-marked.
TIP:
We highly recommend renting a car with full insurance and no deductible from Cancun, Playa del Carmen, or Tulum. This gives you the freedom to explore the site at your own pace, beat the crowds, and visit nearby cenotes – something you can’t easily do with public transport.
2. Book a Day Tour
If you prefer not to drive, consider booking an organized guided tour. Most hotels and tour agencies in Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum offer tours that include transportation, admission to the site, and visits to cenotes or other activities. These are popular day tours from:
- Tulum:
- Playa del Carmen:
- Cancun:
3. Local Transport
Budget-conscious travellers can use ADO buses for local transport from Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum. Note that if you take colectivos (public taxi vans) or ADO buses, you may need to change vans in Tulum.
4. Taxi
Taxis in Tulum are among the most expensive in the world, with limited competition and little negotiation for English-speaking tourists. We don’t recommend taxis unless you travel in a group of four.
Tips for visiting
- Arrive Early: Get to the ruins close to opening time to enjoy a quieter experience and avoid crowds.
- Use Facilities Beforehand: There are no restrooms inside the site, so use the facilities before entering.
- Rent a Bike or Use a Maya Taxi: The site is large, so renting a bike or taking a pedicab will help you explore more efficiently.
- Bring Water and Snacks: There are few amenities inside the site, so carry water and a snack.
- Pack Mosquito Repellent: Use a repellent with 50% DEET to protect against mosquitoes.
- Wear Proper Gear: Dress in lightweight clothing, wear a hat and sunglasses and apply sunscreen. Comfortable walking shoes are essential.
- Bring a Backpack: A backpack is easier to manage than a handbag while riding a bike.
- Carry Cash: There are no ATMs on-site or in the village, so bring enough cash for entrance fees and other purchases.
- Swimwear and Towel: Pack these if you plan to visit nearby cenotes for a swim.
- Hire a Guide: Local guides, who speak English or Spanish, offer valuable insights into the site’s history and enhance your visit. Hiring a guide supports the local community and helps preserve Maya culture.
We found hiring a local guide at the entrance incredibly beneficial. They provided in-depth knowledge and stories that made our visit much richer and more informative. Supporting local guides also contributes to the preservation of Maya heritage and supports local employment.
PRE-BOOK YOUR ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME EXPERIENCE IN COBA BELOW:
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Last updated: 05/08/2024 by Martina Kokesova
This looks like a place I would love to visit. Thank you for all the great info!