Deep in the hot, humid tropical jungles of Mexico lie the ruins of a stunning Maya city. The locals named it Ek Balam, which translates to ‘the black jaguar’. Some interpretations also suggest it could mean ‘bright star jaguar’. Historical accounts from the site itself reference a 1579 account by Commander Juan Gutierrez Picon. This account suggests that the name of the site refers to a great leader. He supposedly founded and ruled this city for 40 years. While this tale is fascinating, current archaeological evidence hasn’t yet confirmed the existence of such a ruler. Still, these stunning ruins showcase impressive Maya art and remarkably well-preserved architecture.
The unique cultural and religious practices that set Ek Balam from other Maya sites: In this ancient city, the main deity worshipped was the jaguar, which is reflected in the name of the site. This highlights how this city was different from its neighbouring cities such as Chichen Itza where the Feathered Serpent (Kukulcan or Quetzalcoatl) was the primary god.
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Why You Need To Visit the Ek Balam Ruins:
If you’re craving an adventure away from the crowds while exploring the Yucatan Peninsula, these Mayan ruins should be on your bucket list. Unlike the crowded sites of Tulum or Chichen Itza, Ek Balam ruins offer a quieter, more peaceful experience. The site stayed hidden in the jungle until explorers finally mapped it in the late 1980s, with ongoing research into the 1990s and 2000s revealing more about its historical significance.
Location
The ruins of Ek Balam are just 66 km (35 miles) northeast of the UNESCO-listed Chichen Itza. This pre-Columbian site, once a bustling Maya Kingdom, lies in the Northern Maya lowlands, about 25 km (15.5 miles) north of the charming colonial city of Valladolid.
What Is So Special About Ek Balam?
Ek Balam stands out from other Maya sites with its rare and incredibly well-preserved stucco sculptures. Among its treasures is the Mural Painting of the 96 Glyphs with detailed texts and glyphs, making it one of the richest known in northern Yucatan.
The site also features one of the largest Maya structures in Mesoamerica. King Ukit Kan Lek Tok’s mortuary offering is also one of the richest in the Mayan Area. And here’s a bonus: you can still climb to the tops of two structures in Ek Balam for stunning views and a direct connection to its ancient past.
Quick History
- The National Institute of Anthropology and History of Mexico states that Ek Balam dates back to the Middle Preclassic period, as there is evidence from that time. Pottery fragments confirm people lived here as early as 300 BC.
- The Maya thrived here until the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. The city’s peak came during the Late Classic period, between 770 and 896 AD, when it boasted impressive architectural achievements.
- At its peak, Ek Balam was home to up to 18,000 people.
- Ek Balam was the heart of the Maya Kingdom known as Tlalol, flourishing under King Ukit Kan Lek Tok’ and his successors on the throne.
- The city once covered 12 square kilometres (7.4 square miles). Today, only the central area has been excavated. The publicly accessible archaeological site covers about 2.6 square kilometres (1 square mile).
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Suggested Itinerary for Ek Balam Ruins: Top Things to Do and See
At its peak, Ek Balam must have presented a breathtaking sight. Today, this archaeological site is home to 45 structures surrounded by jungle. These ruins are compact and well-organized, with lush vegetation covering much of the area. It features a Vaulted Passage, and its structures are clustered into two large groups: the South Plaza and the North Plaza.
Once you’ve secured your tickets, you’ll begin your journey through a lush, verdant forest. As you stroll along, you’ll meet local vendors offering a variety of souvenirs. After a short walk, you’ll arrive at the impressive defensive walls that once protected this ancient Maya city.
1. Defensive Walls
As you begin your exploration, take a moment to appreciate the impressive defensive walls that set this site apart. This archaeological site is notable not only for its grand structures and stunning stucco sculptures but also for its sophisticated defensive fortifications. Ek Balam’s defensive walls feature two circles: an inner and an outer wall. The Maya people designed them with care to protect the city’s central area, where the elite lived.
The remnants of the walls are evidence of permanent, solid defences against invasion. According to Wikipedia, these walls in Ek Balam were the largest in the Late Classic Yucatan.
DID YOU KNOW?
The defensive walls at Ek Balam are exceptionally rare among Yucatan’s pre-Hispanic sites. Although you can spot similar walls at other Maya sites such as Uxmal and Chichen Itza, the complexity and scale of these fortifications are remarkable. The inner wall, which was plastered, enclosed approximately 23.6 acres and stood 2 metres (6.6 feet) high with a thickness of 3 metres (9.8 feet). The outer wall, though simpler, was equally crucial for defence. The fortifications included five carefully designed entrances, each protected against potential threats. Additionally, five pre-Hispanic roads, known as sacbés, connected the city to other significant locations in the region.
2. Oval Palace
The Oval Palace or Structure 16.
Nobody can deny that the Oval Palace on the south side of the South Plaza is one of the most stunning buildings in Ek Balam. Archaeologists date this circular marvel to the Late Classic period. It has a rectangular base, measures 26 m in length and its towering walls rise to 11.5 m. Constructed in three stages, its architectural evolution is evident and remarkable.
Purpose and Function
Functionally, the Oval Palace was a multi-tiered structure, featuring 10 rooms on its lower level and a platform with a well-preserved central staircase. The Maya used it to access two rooms on the upper level and a small, one-room temple on the top.
The Oval Palace played a pivotal role in Maya society in this ancient city. This impressive building served as the residence of the high-ranking elites in the kingdom hierarchy and for ritualistic practices. Imagine walking through corridors where the city’s elite once walked and where the Maya practised their ritual activities. The Oval Palace also contains burial relics. Archaeologists assume it is also related to Mayan cosmological ceremonies.
Gorgeous views
From its heights, the Oval Palace offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Acropolis and Las Gemelas buildings, making it a highlight of your visit.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Oval Palace remains one of the few Mayan ruins that you can still climb in 2024, offering a unique opportunity to experience history and stunning vistas.
3. The twins
While you cannot climb these two temples, exploring their surroundings offers a unique opportunity to appreciate the Maya’s architectural brilliance.
Architectural features
Curious about what makes Structure 17 so special? This impressive structure to the west of the South Plaza showcases the Maya’s incredible skill in symmetry and design. The locals call them the twins because they look identical. The two buildings mirror each other perfectly. They sit on a rectangular platform, 40 m (131 ft) long and 17 m (55 ft) wide, which is about 2 m (6.5 ft) high. Each temple has four rooms and individual stairways, but you cannot climb them now due to their fragile condition.
Discoveries
During excavations, archaeologists found two stucco masks that were part of the architectonic decoration. They also discovered small rings in the corners of the rooms and vibrant red paint remains. This suggests that the facades of the twins could have been painted red.
4. Stelae of Ek Balam
Before heading to the ball court, don’t miss the beautifully carved stone monuments. You can find them next to the Oval Palace, opposite the twins.
Artistic Brilliance
Let us tell you a secret: at Ek Balam and other Maya territories, archaeologists uncovered impressive carved stone columns called stelae. These valuable artefacts, often covered in intricate carvings, are more than just monuments; they are windows into the past.
Did you know these stone slabs stood as historical records and commemorations of rulers and significant events? Their carvings reveal both images and hieroglyphic inscriptions, offering a glimpse into the lives of the ancient Maya. Despite many of them surviving, the use of soft and easily eroded limestone means that many of them are unclear.
Inscriptions
During excavations, archaeologists discovered stone monuments that provide invaluable insight into the culture, art, and history of Ek Balam. They both date back to the Late Classic and tell the story of powerful rulers and their achievements in this Maya city. The Mayas placed Stela 1 on January 18, 840, to commemorate the enthronement of a ruler whose name had partially eroded. The upper part of this precious stone monument depicts the representation of a ruler of Ek Balam, Ukit Kan Lek Tok’. Unfortunately, the second monument has become unreadable over the centuries.
5. 9th century Ball court
Monumental architecture, writing, mythology, astronomy, and maths are just some of the features of Mayan culture. Pyramids and massive temples were not the only structures in honoured spots in Maya cities. A common feature of almost every Maya city was the ball court, which hosted the ancient sports game.
Pok-Ta-Pok
Ever heard of the Maya ball game Pok-Ta-Pok? This Mesoamerican ball game was an ancient game of life and death, the primary purpose of the ball courts like this one in Ek Balam. The deadly ball game was a religious display for the gods.
Two opposing teams would face each other on a narrow court with sloping walls. They had to keep a rubber ball in the air, pass it to teammates, or throw it through a vertical stone ring attached to a side wall. Here’s where it gets juicy: the players could only use their hips, shoulders, knees, or head. The use of hands or feet was forbidden, and a single wrong move could mean the difference between life and death.
Why, you may ask? The heavy rubber ball they used in the game was the size of a volleyball but 15 times heavier. The Maya people made it from the latex of the rubber tree and did not have a uniform size. Solid rubber balls could weigh around 3-4 kilograms and could cause serious injury if struck by them.
The players had to throw the ball through a hoop attached to a side wall, a bit like a basketball. However, this was not easy because the rings were barely bigger than the ball in play. The stone rings were also high above the playing field. Unfortunately, the stone rings from the ball court at Ek Balam did not survive.
DID YOU KNOW?
Murals found on the sides of ball courts in other Maya cities depict human sacrifice. Sacrifice was an important aspect of this game. There’s a lot of mystery surrounding this game: sometimes the captain of the winning team was sacrificed to the gods. Other times, the loser of the team would be beheaded. There were likely two versions of the game: once played as a sport with betting involved and another as a sacred ritual game with a human sacrifice at the end.
6. Acropolis
The biggest and most famous structure is Structure 1, or the Acropolis, as the locals call it. This impressive building dominates the north side of Ek Balam and stands as the tallest building in this ancient city.
A Royal residence
The Acropolis measures approximately 160 m (525 ft) long, 70 m (229 ft) wide, and 32 m (105 ft) high. It was more than just a building – it was the Royal Palace. At least three prominent kingdom rulers live here, using the Acropolis as their primary residence. Imagine the power and prestige of these rulers, who governed from within these walls.
Function and design
The building’s layout features several interconnected chambers and expansive terraces. It has the shape of a massive pyramid, with a central stairway leading to the top. Don’t forget to explore its east and west wings.
The Acropolis consists of 6 levels and served multiple purposes. It has a highly decorated façade and more than 70 excavated rooms. These rooms provided spaces for the Mayan elite and a relaxing place for the king and his royal court. The rooms also had different uses, such as carrying out ceremonies and handling with administrative matters. There were also areas for preparing food and spaces reserved for the craft works.
Climbing the Acropolis
One of the most exciting things about the Ek Balam ruins is that you can still climb the Acropolis and the Oval Palace in 2024. The main external staircase leads to the summit, where you can enjoy breathtaking views. This design allowed the rulers to oversee both the city and its surrounding landscape. Imagine the bustling life that once filled these grounds and picture how this city was laid out.
Gorgeous Stucco Façade
Did you know this ancient Maya city was a very important centre of artistic creation in the Maya zone?
One of the most striking features of the Acropolis is its ornate stucco façade, sculptures, and decorations. Ek Balam’s king gathered the best sculptors, painters, and craftsmen of his time to create an extraordinary work of art. Among these decorations are stunning statues rulers and figures, richly dressed in jaguar-skin skirts with large belts of ballgame players.
The city’s artists also influenced the early pictorial tradition of Chichen Itza. Today, Ek Balam holds great importance because of the richness of its inscriptions and iconography, even though only fragments of most of them remain.
7. The Ruler’s tomb
Did you know that the Acropolis contains the impressive tomb of one of the rulers of this kingdom? On the fourth level, to the right-hand side, an external façade decorated with detailed stucco marks the royal tomb of King Ukit Kan Lek Tok, the king of the Tlalol Kingdom. This part of the temple, with its doorway shaped like a mouth is called ‘The Throne’.
The façade of the tomb features the face of the Monster of the Earth, symbolizing an entrance to the underworld. Large statues of figures atop the façade showcase the high level of craftsmanship of the Maya artisans.
Archaeologists discovered the ruler’s remains and over 7,000 pieces of funeral offerings. It contained 21 vessels made of ceramics, alabaster, and jewels. They also found objects made from shells, flintstone, and other rare materials like pearls and a gold pendant.
TIP:
While climbing up the stairs is hard, coming down is even harder.
8. Maya writing
Did you know that scholars found numerous mural paintings and epigraphic text along the city in a fine state of preservation? The glyphic corpus from Ek Balam is among the richest known in northern Yucatan.
Something most people don’t realize is that Ek Balam holds one of the most valuable treasures of the Mayan world. The precious Mural of the 96 Glyphs, arranged in three lines, with painted texts has exactly 96 glyphic blocks, like the famous Palenque panel. Scholars found it in 2023 in Room 29-sub of the Acropolis on the left side, but they sealed it for preservation.
While this precious mural painting may look like a random piece of art, it is actually a complicated Maya writing system. The text inscriptions contain the date of the foundation of the Talol kingdom. It also mentions the ascendance to the throne of King Ukit Kan Lek Took, who was the founder of the dynasty.
Classic Maya writing consists of a complicated series of inscribed glyphs. Decoding the hieroglyphic writing system of the Maya was a difficult task. To make things a little complicated for the reader, and the scribes, there were more than 1,000 different Maya signs. Only relatively recently scholars have been able to make sense of Classic Maya.
9. Structure 10
A short distance from the Acropolis lies Structure 10, which features a rectangular basement. The structure’s foundational phase dates back to the Late Classic period, while the Maya constructed the upper portions during the Postclassic period (1200 -1542 AD). Structure 10 is 43 m (141 ft) long, 30 m (98ft) wide, and approximately 5 m (16 ft) high. Despite its large size, many tourists miss it when exploring the site. However, Structure 10 stands out with its large, sloping walls and a central staircase, offering a unique architectural style for this region.
Round corners
One of the most striking features of Structure 10 is its rounded corners. This design is atypical for the northern Yucatan architecture, where sharp corners are common. Archaeologists suggest that this unique characteristic may indicate connections with the present-day region of Guatemala.
Unique features
The upper part of the cornice features a band of large stones projecting out from the walls, some measuring up to 1 m (3.2 ft) in length. This decorative element highlights the Maya’s architectural skills.
A central staircase leads to a grassy upper platform, where you can find two small, unconstructed platforms and a vaulted temple. The Maya used this small space with thick walls for religious purposes, similar to the one atop the Oval Palace.
Jungle views
From the outer back edge of Structure 10, you can see the jungle below. This view helps you to imagine what Ek Balam looked like before its rediscovery. It offers a unique view of the ancient city blending into the lush natural surroundings.
Useful information about the Ek Balam Ruins
Opening times
Ek Balam is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm, 365 days a year. Remember that the last entry is at 4 pm sharp, as of August 2024. While this site rarely gets crowded, try to visit the ruins early in the morning or late afternoon to enjoy tranquillity before the groups of tourists arrive from Cancun, Tulum, and Merida.
DID YOU KNOW?
December to March is an ideal time to visit, avoiding the rainy season and soaring temperatures. In summer, temperatures can reach 35°C (95°F) with higher humidity. Keep that in mind if you struggle with heat.
Entrance Fee
Entry ticket for adult international visitors to Ek Balam costs 556 MXN (USD 29.50), as of August 2024. The entrance fee is divided into two parts: a federal fee (127 MXN) and a state fee (95 MXN). Different officials at the same counter issue and collect tickets for each part separately.
Children under 12 who aren’t Mexican citizens pay 95 MXN (USD 5). Mexican citizens pay 222 MXN (USD 12), and the residents of Yucatan pay 95 MXN (USD 5), as of August 2024. On Sundays, Mexican citizens and foreigners residing in Mexico can enter for free with official identification. Disabled visitors (both Mexicans and foreigners) can also visit this site free of charge.
GOOD TO KNOW:
If arriving by car, expect to pay 100 MXN (USD 5.30) for parking, as of August 2024.
How much time do you need to explore the ruins?
Even though the Ek Balam ruins are compact, we recommend spending at least 90 minutes to 2 hours. Two hours will allow you plenty of time to explore the site and climb both structures. If you plan to visit a nearby cenote, add another hour.
Facilities
- Wheelchair access
- Bathrooms
- Souvenir shops which also sell snacks and refreshments
- A small Museum of Local Mayan art
- Certified tour guide
The price of guided tours of Ek Balam ruins varies, depending on language and group size. Expect to pay at least 1300 MXN (USD 69) for a two-hour English tour or 800 MXN (USD 42) for a Spanish-speaking guide, as of August 2024. If you decide to explore the site without a guide, we highly recommend reading about the ruins beforehand due to the limited information inside the park.
Getting here
- By Car:
Ek Balam is easily accessible from Cancun, the Riviera Maya, and Valladolid. The approximate distances and travel times are:
- 172 km (107 miles) west of Cancun, roughly a 2-hour drive.
- 157 km (96 miles) northwest of Playa del Carmen, about 2-hour drive.
- 127 km (79 miles) from Tulum, approximately a 1.4-hour drive.
- 28 km (17 miles) north of Valladolid, around a 35-minute drive.
TIP:
Renting a car with full insurance and no deductible on the Riviera Maya or Cancun is something we highly recommend. This flexibility allows you to explore the ruins and combine your visit with other nearby attractions like Chichen Itza and the cenotes.
Did you know that UNESCO-listed Chichen Itza is just 72 km (45 miles) away from this site? The roads between the sites are safe and well-marked, and it’s only about a one-hour drive. For the most current road conditions and travel advisories, check the Yucatan State Tourism Board before you travel.
- Day tours
If you prefer not to drive, booking a day tour is an excellent option. Most tours include transportation, admission, and a guide. Additionally, tours include a visit to a cenote, perfect for a refreshing dip after exploring the ruins. These are popular day tours from:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cancun
- Valladolid
- Merida
- Local Transport
Collective taxis (shared rides) to these ruins are also an option. These taxis typically depart when they have at least four passengers. Upon arrival, you will be dropped off at the entrance, from where it’s about a 2 km (1.2 miles) walk to the archaeological site.
NOTE:
If you choose this option, confirm departure times in advance. For more information on local transport, consult local travel guides or Valladolid’s transportation resources.
PRE-BOOK YOUR ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME EXPERIENCE IN EK BALAM IN MEXICO BELOW:
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