Everyone talks about one Nabataean marvel worth seeing. But what if there was another, just as stunning—yet almost forgotten? Little Petra, also called Siq al-Barid (meaning ‘the cold canyon’ in Arabic), is a UNESCO-listed site just north of Petra and Wadi Musa in Jordan. Like its famous neighbour, it features stunning rock-cut buildings carved into sandstone canyons. Yet it has remained a secret for far too long.
Here’s the shocking part—most tourists skip it. Even though it’s free to visit, peaceful, and filled with the same breathtaking architecture, it remains one of Jordan’s best-kept secrets. While Petra attracts the crowds, this site still holds the magic of the past. Walk through its hidden pathways, explore its carved chambers, and experience the stillness that has disappeared from other sites.
Don’t make the mistake of overlooking this forgotten wonder—it’s a place that belongs on every Jordan itinerary. You’ll make a mistake if you skip this place.
Short History
Siq al-Barid once thrived with merchants and travellers, but then, the world forgot it.
Archaeologists believe Little Petra was built in the 1st century AD when the Nabataean civilization was at its peak. It was likely a support city for merchants travelling to and from the nearby capital of the Nabatean Kingdom. Travellers who moved along the legendary spice routes stopped here to rest their camels and stocked up on goods. They traded here and prepared for the final stretch to the main city. Wealthy Nabataeans hosted lavish feasts in its carved stone chambers and closed important deals.
A CONNECTION TO AN EVEN OLDER CIVILIZATION:
Did you know this site was not the first settlement in the area? It was home to humans thousands of years earlier. Nearby, the Neolithic village of Beidha existed as early as 7200 BC, making it one of the oldest settlements in Jordan. It was also one of the first inhabited villages in the world and one of the oldest settlements in the Middle East. Since the fire, Beidha (also spelt Bayda) underwent a rebuild but it was only inhabited for a short time.
LOST FOR CENTURIES
After the fall of Petra in the middle of the 7th century, Siq al-Barid vanished from maps. For almost 1,000 years, no one outside the Bedouin community knew it existed. When Swiss explorer Jacob Burckhardt rediscovered Petra in 1812, he never mentioned this site. It wasn’t until the 1950s that archaeologists began studying it properly.
Things to see in Little Petra, Jordan
Before stepping inside, notice the mysterious carved façade on the right. Then, walk through history, just as traders and travellers did thousands of years ago.
1. Siq of Al Beidha
The Siq of Al Beidha is the hidden entrance to Little Petra, a shadowy canyon leading to one of the Nabataean cities. This 350-meter canyon is smaller than Petra’s famous Siq but just as striking. The name ‘Cold Siq’ comes from its constant shade, keeping it cool even in Jordan’s heat. It’s narrow and its high walls block most of the sunlight. It stays cool even in the hottest months.
2. Temple above cave rooms
As soon as you step beyond the Siq, the view opens into a larger canyon, revealing an ancient world frozen in time. Towering cliffs surround you, and in the distance, a remarkable two-level structure catches your eye. This is the Temple Above Cave Rooms—a vast sandstone monument, supported by two massive stone columns. Though the upper chamber is off-limits, the ground level invites exploration. A dwelling with three cave rooms beneath the temple was possibly for those responsible for the ceremonial building and the associated rituals.
The temple’s precise construction and sheer scale make it one of the most fascinating sights. The ancient Arab people carved this place with astonishing precision, using only simple hand tools. Look up and see the Nabataean horn capitals on the freestanding columns and the two corner pillars. These details hint at the site’s importance and connect this structure to Petra’s grand temples.
You can explore additional structures carved directly into the rock face, including small chambers and cisterns.
3. Triclinium
As the canyon narrows again, more rock-cut chambers appear. Some are labelled on the map as Tricliniums. These were Nabataean dining halls, where merchants rested, and feasted on food and wine after long desert journeys. The name comes from Latin, describing a three-sided seating arrangement where guests reclined while eating. Today, Bedouins seek shelter here, but the past lingers. Step inside, touch the stone and imagine the echo of laughter and clinking cups from thousands of years ago.
4. Painted House
As you pass through the Siq, something else catches your eye—a half-destroyed staircase, leading up to an ancient chamber. Most visitors without a tour guide walk right past it. Those who ascend it uncover one of the most astonishing artworks of the ancient world.
Climb the worn stone steps and you’ll reach one of the most fascinating and overlooked sites in Jordan: a rare Nabataean treasure that nearly vanished from history. At seven meters above the ground, carved into the rock face, lies the Painted House. This Biclinium, which leads to two chambers, houses one of the greatest artistic discoveries in the Middle East. Inside lies the 2,000-years old Hellenistic masterpiece, a fresco so rare that it has no equal in the region.
Only 30% of the original fresco remains, yet it provides a breathtaking glimpse into Nabataean art. Radiocarbon dating by Yarmouk University places its origin between 40 BC and 25 AD. The fresco is the only known surviving example of Nabataean mural painting in situ. Some experts claim it surpasses the frescoes of Herculaneum in Italy, showcasing a unique blend of Hellenistic Alexandrian style with Nabataean craftsmanship.
Even after 2,000 years, you can still see vines twist and coil across the ceiling, painted with astonishing precision. Tiny cupids dance among the ripe grapes and wild raspberries and shoot arrows. Winged angelic beings, birds, and insects also weave into the artwork. Some sections even have gilded vine leaves, revealing how luxurious this place once was.
Restoration in 2010 uncovered more secrets, proving that the Painted House was not only an ordinary Nabataean hall. Recent research suggests it had a deeper purpose. The Painted House was part of a sacred sanctuary, possibly dedicated to the goddess Isis, whose badly eroded image was found in one of the frescoes. The presence of water channels and purification basins also suggests ritual use.
5. Viewpoint
Most visitors don’t realize there’s a secret viewpoint. At the very end of the Siq, a steep staircase leads up the cliffs. It’s a tricky climb—the steps are worn and surprisingly smooth—but at the top, you’ll find a reward: the best views in the entire site. There is also a small Bedouin coffee stall, which sits on the edge of a vast wadi. Here, you can sit on soft carpets with a cup of Turkish coffee and enjoy breathtaking views.
We skipped the viewpoint in February—the weather wasn’t clear enough—but we were told that on a sunny day, the view is unmissable. If you want to explore further, descend the stairs on the other side and follow the path left. After approximately 500 m, you’ll discover Al Beidha, a prehistoric Neolithic village, one of the earliest settlements in the Middle East.
Entrance fee to Little Petra, Jordan in 2025
Most people don’t realize this: Little Petra in Jordan is free to visit. As of March 2025, there’s no entrance fee, no ticket required, and no long lines. Simply park your car in the open lot, walk past local Bedouin souvenir shops, and enter through the narrow canyon. When we visited this site, we were asked to show a Jordan Pass. However, this site is not officially listed on it, and you don’t need one to enter.
You’ll find guides offering tours, but exploring this site is easy.
Opening times in 2025
- SUMMER (March 2 – October 1, 2025): 7 AM – 3 PM
- WINTER (October 2 – March 1 2025): 7 AM – 2 PM
Arrive early and experience Siq al-Barid in total silence. You might even find Bedouins still sleeping inside the caves, wrapped in blankets, just as their ancestors did centuries ago.
How much time do you need for a visit? Not as much as you think. You only need about 40 minutes to explore it at a relaxed pace. If you plan to climb to the viewpoint, you’ll want 1 hour. Add extra time for the Neolithic village. Since there’s only one way in and out, you will not get lost.
Hiking the Back Door Trail to the Monastery
The Back Door Trail is a 9-km (5.5 mi) backdoor route to the Monastery, taking you through desert landscapes, exposed cliffs, and stunning rock formations. But is it for you? Only if you have 2 days in Petra. If you attempt this hike in just one day, you’ll arrive at the Monastery exhausted, with little energy left to explore the main site. The trail starts on the left of the car park in Little Petra. It takes 1.5 to 2 hours and is not well-marked, so a local guide is essential. Start early, carry plenty of water, and rest at the Monastery cafés before continuing.
How to get there
Many visitors assume this archaeological site is part of Petra, but it’s not. It’s a separate site, just 10 minutes away by car. The drive takes you through Umm Sayhoun, where you turn right onto a stunning desert road. Give yourself extra time to stop for photos. Here’s the catch—no public transport. Your best option is hiring a taxi (around 20 JD round trip, including wait time)—hotels in Wadi Musa can help you book one. If you’re coming from Amman, book a tour which includes both sites.
Now you know what to do in Little Petra, Jordan!
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Written by Martina Kokesova